Kekova Adası Araştırmalarında Tespit Edilen Üç Yeni Balık Sosu İşliği
Erdoğan ASLAN
PHASELIS III (2017) 175-185
DOI: 10.18367/Pha.17011
Geliş Tarihi: 18.05.2017 | Kabul Tarihi: 12.07.2017
Elektronik Yayın Tarihi: 24.07.2017
Telif Hakkı © PHASELIS Disiplinlerarası Akdeniz Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2017
Abstract: The production of fish products salted with fish sauces, which were among the fermented food products in the ancient age, started in the VIIth century BC and have since become widespread and important, especially in Spain, the Black Sea and North Africa. It was understood from the graphite on amphoras, archaeological remains and written sources that large production facilities spread across the Black Sea in the Roman period, as well as in the Western Mediterranean and the Aegean Sea. The production and trade in fish sauce, in which freed slaves commonly worked during the Roman Period, continues to exist even today despite the fact that it is practiced in different ways and methods – even centuries after the collapse of the Roman Empire. Knowledge about fish sauce production in the ancient age can be learned through ancient texts and archeological remains. The subject of this study is the contribution to the region of the fish sauce workshops found on Kekova Island – the largest Turkish island in the Mediterranean – and its vicinity, which is in the Üçağız District of the Antalya province of Demre.
Keywords: Fish Sauce, Allec, Garum, Liquamen, Kekova
Öz: Antikçağ deniz ticareti ürünleri arasında da yer alan balık sosları ve diğer balık ürünleri, MÖ VII. yüzyıldan itibaren başlamış ve sonraki dönemlerde özellikle İspanya, Karadeniz ve Kuzey Afrika’da yaygınlaşarak önem kazanmıştır. Büyük üretim tesislerinin Roma Dönemi’nde Karadeniz’in yanı sıra Batı Akdeniz ve Ege’de de yaygınlaştığı, amphoralar üzerindeki grafitlerden, arkeolojik kalıntılardan ve yazılı kaynaklardan anlaşılmaktadır. Roma Dönemi boyunca daha çok azatlı kölelerin meslek edindiği balık sosu üretimi ve ticareti, en yaygın olduğu Roma İmparatorluğu’nun çöküşünden sonraki yüzyıllarda ve hatta günümüzde bile farklı biçin ve yöntemlerde icra edilmesine rağmen devam etmektedir. Antikçağ balık sosu üretimi ile ilgili bilgilere, antik yazarlara ait yazınsal metinler ve arkeolojik kalıntılar yoluyla ulaşılabilmektedir. Bu kapsamda Antalya İli Demre İlçesi Üçağız Mevkiinde bulunan ve ülkemizin Akdeniz’deki en büyük adası olan Kekova Adası ve çevresinde yapılan yüzey araştırmalarında tespit edilen balık sosu işliklerinin mimarisi, kapasiteleri ve bölge ekonomisine katkısı çalışmanın konusunu oluşturmaktadır.
Anahtar Sözcükler: Balık Sosu, Allec, Garum, Liquamen, Kekova
Antik Kaynaklar
Aristoph. Akh. (= Aristophanes, Akharnes) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Aristophanes, The Acharnians, The Clouds, The Knights, The Wasps. Trans.: B. B. Rogers. New York 1924 (The Loeb Classical Library).
Cassian. de re rust. (= Cassianus Bassus, Geoponicorum Sive De Re Rustica Libri) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Cassianus Bassus, Geoponicorum Sive De Re Rustica Libri XX, Volumes 3-4. Trans.: P. Needham. Charleston 2011
Cato de. agr. (= Marcus Porcius Cato, De Agri Cultura) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Marcus Porcius Cato, On Agriculture. Trans.: W. D. Hooper. London 1934.
Colum. de. rust. (= Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella, De Re Rustica) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Columella, On Agriculture. Trans.: A. B. Ash et. al. London 1941.
Galen. de Aliment. (Galenos, De Alimentorum Facultatibus) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Galen, On the Properties of Foodstuffs. Trans. O. Powell. Cambridge 2003.
Isidor. Hisp. etym. (= Isidorus Hispalensis, Etymologiae) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Isidorus Hispalensis, The Etymologies of Isidore of Seville. Trans.: S. A. Barney et al. Cambridge 2006.
Plaut. Capt. (= Titus Maccius Plautus, Captivi) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Titus Maccius Plautus, The Comedies Volume I. The Captivies (Captivi). Eds.: D. R. Slavitt – P. Bovie. Trans.: R. Moore. London 1995.
Plin. nat. (= Gaius Plinius Secundus, Naturalis Historia) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Plinius, The Historie of the World Commonly Called, The Naturall Historie of C. Plinius Secundus. Trans.: P. Holland. London 1634.
Polyb. (= Polybius, The Historiai) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Polybius, The Histories. Trans.: W. R. Paton, vol. II. Cambridge – Massachusetts – London 1922 (The Loeb Classical Library).
Quin. Inst. (= Marcus Fabius Quintilianus, Institutio Oratoria) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Quintilianus, Institutio Oratoria. Trans.: E. Butler, vol. III. Domain 1920-1922 (Loeb Classical Library).
Mart. Ep. (= Martialis, Epigrammata) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Martialis, Epigrams. Trans.: C. A. Walter – M. A. Kerr, vol. II. London 1920 (Loeb Classical Library).
Strab. (= Strabon, Geographika) Kullanılan Metin ve Çeviri: Strabo, The Geography. Trans.: H. L. Jones, vol. VIII. London 1920 (Loeb Classical Library).
Modern Literatür
Aquerreta et al. 2001 Y. Aquerreta, I. Astiasarán – J. Bello, “Use of Exogenous Enzymes to Elaborate the Roman Fish Sauce Garum”. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture 82 (2001) 107-112.
Aslan 2015 E. Aslan, “Kekova Bölgesi’nde Bulunan Balık Sosu İşlikleri”. CEDRUS III (2015) 141-161.
Atik 2008 S. Atik, “Marcus Gavius Apicius ve Garum”. Ankara Üniversitesi, Dil Tarih-Coğrafya Fakültesi Arkeoloji Bölümü Dergisi, III. ve IV. Arkeolojik Araştırmalar Sempozyumu 2 (2008) 15-25.
Andre 1981 J. Andre, L’Alimentation et la cuisine á Rome. Paris 1981.
Barrios 2007 L. L. Barrios, “Sobre La Elaboración Del “Garum” Y Otros Productos Piscícolas En Las Costas Béticas”. Mainake 29 (2007) 273-289.
Beddows 1985 C. G. Beddows, “Fermented Fish and Fish Products”. Microbiology of Fermented Foods 2 (1985) 1-39.
Ben Lazreg et al. 1995 N. Ben Lazreg, M. Bonifay, A. Drine – P. Trousset, “Production et Commercialisation des Salsamenta de l’Afrique Ancienne”. Ed. P. Trousset, Productions et Exportations Africaines. Actualitiés Archéologiques. Paris (1995) 103-142.
Berdowski 2008 P. Berdowski, “Garum of Herod the Great (Latin-Greek Inscription on the Amphora from Masada)”. The Qumran Chronicle 16-3/4 (2008) 107-122.
Berdowski 2013 P. Berdowski, “In Search of the Lexical Meaning of the Latin Terms Cetarius and Cetaria”. Eds. P. Kretschmer – F. Skutsch, Zeitsrift für Griechishe und Lateinische Sprache, Glotta 89. Göttingen (2013) 47-61.
Bernal et al. 2009 D. Bernal, D. Cottica – A. Zaccaria , “El garum de Pompeya y Herculano (2008-2012). Síntesis de la primera campaña del proyecto hispano-italiano”. Proyectos Arqueológicos en el Exterior 2008. Madrid (2009) 125-137.
Bezecky 1996 Dr. Bezeczky, “Amphora Inscriptions-Legionary Supply?”. Britannia 27 (1996) 329-336.
Bursa 2007 P. Bursa, Antikçağ’da Anadolu’da Balık ve Balıkçılık. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, İstanbul Üniversitesi, İstanbul 2007.
Chrone-Vakalopoulos – Vakalopoulos 2009 M. Chrone-Vakalopoulos – A. Vakalopoulos, “Fishes and Other Aquatic Species in the Byzantine Literatüre, Classification, Terminology and Scientific Names”. Byzantina Symmeikta 18 (2009)123-157.
Corcoran 1963 T. H. Corcoran, “Roman Fish Souces”. The Classical Journal 58/ 5 (1963) 204-210.
Cotton et al. 1996 H. Cotton, O. Lerenau – Y. Goren, “Fish Sauces from Herodian Masada”. JRA 9 (1996) 223-238.
Curtis 1979 R. I. Curtis, “The Garum Shop of Pompeii”. Cronache Pompeiane 5 (1979) 5-23.
Curtis 1983 R. I. Curtis, “In Defense of Garum”. CJ 78 (1983) 232-240.
Curtis 1984 R. I. Curtis, “Salted Fish Products in Ancient Medicine”. Journal of the History of Medicine and Allied Sciences 39/4 (1984) 430-445.
Curtis 1988 R. I. Curtis, “Spanish Trade in Salted Fish Products in the 1st and 2nd Centuries A.D.”. IJNA 17 (1988) 205-210.
Curtis 1991 R. I. Curtis, Garum and Salsamenta: Production and Commerce in Materia Medica. Leiden – New York 1991.
Curtis 2005 R. I. Curtis, “Sources for Production and Trade of Greek and Roman Processed Fish. Ancient Fishing and Fish Processing in the Black Sea Region”. BSS 2 (2005) 31-46.
Desse-Berset – Desse 2000 N. Desse-Berset – J. Desse, “Salsamenta, Garum et autres Préparations de Poissons”. MEFRA 112 (2000) 84-92.
Drexhage 1993 H. J. Drexhage, “Garum und Garumhandel im Römischen und Spätantiken Ägypten”. MünstBeitr 12 (1993) 27-55.
Étienne 1970 R. Étienne, “À propos du garum sociorum”. Latomus 29 (1970) 297-313.
Étienne – Mayet 1991 R. Étienne – F. Mayet, “Le garum à la mode de Scaurus”. Eds. M. Ponsich, Le Flem – Jean Paul, Alimente 3. Madrid (1991) 187-194.
Étienne – Mayet 1998 R. Étienne – F. Mayet, “Le garum à Pompei”. Production et commerce, REA 100 (1998) 199-215.
Étienne – Mayet 2002 R. Étienne – F. Mayet, Salaisons et souces de poisson hispaniques. Paris 2002.
Gildberg 2004 A. R. Gildberg, “Enzymes and Bioactive Peptides from Fish Waste Related to Fish Silage, Fish Feed and Fish Sauce Production”. Journal of Aquatic Food Product Technology 13/2 (2004) 3-11.
Grainger 2011 S. Grainger “Roman Fish Sauce: An Experiment in Archaeology”. Ed. H. Saberi, Cured, Fermented and Smoked Foods, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2010. Oxford (2011) 121-131.
Haley 1990 E. W. Haley, “The Fish Sauce Trader L. Iunius Puteolanus”. ZPE 80 (1990) 72-78.
Ivanova 1994 N. V. Ivanova, “Fish Remains from Archaeological Sites of the Northern Part of the Black Sea Region (Olbia, Berezan)”. Offa 51 (1994) 278-283.
Kılınç 2003 B. Kılınç, “Balık Sosu Teknolojisi”. Ege Üniversitesi Su Ürünleri Dergisi 20/1-2 (2003) 263-272.
Lenger 2008 D. S. Lenger, “Antikçağ’da Garum”. Arkeoloji ve Sanat 129 (2008) 69-76.
Lernau et al. 1996 O. Lernau, H. Cotton – Y. Goren, “Salted Fish and Fish Sauces from Masada: A Preliminary Report”. Archaeofauna 5 (1996) 35-41.
Mackie et al. 1971 I. M. Mackie, R. Hardy – G. Hobbs, Fermented Fish Products. Rome 1971.
Martin-Kilcher 1990 S. Martin-Kilcher, “Fischsaucen und Fischkonserven aus dem Römischen Gallien”. Archäologie der Schweiz 13 (1990) 37-44.
Neer – Lentacker 1994 W. V. Neer – A. Lentacker, “New Archaeological Evidence for the Consumption of Locally-produced Fish Sauce in the Northern Provinces of the Roman Empire”. Archaeonautica 3 (1994) 53-62.
Neer et al. 2006 W. V. Neer, S. H. Dyer, R. Cappers, K. Desender – A. Ervynck, “The Roman Trade in Salted Nilotic Fish Products: Some Examples from Egypt”. Documenta Archaeobiologiae 4 (2006) 173-188.
Nicolaou – Flinder 1976 K. Nicolaou – A. Flinder “Ancient Fish-Tanks at Lapithos, Cyprus”. IJNA 5/2 (1976) 133-141.
Ørsted 1998 P. Ørsted, “Salt, fish and the Sea in the Roman Empire”. Eds. I. Nielsen – H. S. Nielsen, Meals in a Social Context. Aspects of the Communal Meal in the Hellenistic and Roman World. Aarhus (1998) 13-35.
Powell 2003 O. Powell, Galen. On the Properties of Foodstuffs. Cambridge 2003.
Stolba 2005 V. F. Stolba, “Fish and Money: Numismatic Evidence for Black Sea Fishing”. Ed. Tønnes Bekker-Nielsen, “Ancient Fishing and Fish Processing in the Black Sea Region”. BSS 2 (2005) 115-203.
Trakadas 2004 A. Trakadas, “Ancient Marine Resource Exploitation in the Western Mediterranean: the Contribution of the Fishsalting Industry of Mauretania Tingitana (Morocco)”. HMAP-Mediterranean Workshop, Institut de Ciències del Mar (CSIC), Barcelona, 20-22 September 2004. (2004) 1-9.
Trakadas 2005 A. Trakadas, “The Archaeological Evidence for Fish Processing in the Western Mediterranean. Ancient fishing and fish processing in the Black Sea Region”. BSS 2 (2005) 47-82.
Wilkins 1994 J. Wilkins – S. Hill, Archestratus: The Life of Luxury. Trans.: J. Wilkins – S. Hill. Totnes 1994.
Wilkins 2005 J. Wilkins, “Fish as a Source of Food in Antiquity. Ancient Fishing and Fish Processing in the Black Sea Region”. BSS 2 (2005) 21-30.
Zimmermann 2003 M. Zimmermann, “Hafen und Hinterland. Wege der Akkulturation an der lykischen Küste. Vorbericht über die Feldforschungen in den Zentrallykischen Orten Tyberissos und Timiussa in den Jahren 1999 – 2001”. IstMitt 53 (2003) 265-312.
E. Aslan, “Three New Fish Sauce Workshops Detected in Kekova Island Research ”. Phaselis III (2017) 175-185. http://dx.doi.org/10.18367/Pha.16011
Kalıcı bağlantı adresi: http://dx.doi.org/10.18367/pha.17011
Erdoğan ASLAN
Assoc. Prof., Selçuk University, Faculty of Literature, Department of Archeology, Department of Underwater Archaeology, Konya. erdoganaslan@gmail.com